Questions Submitted Tips

Read these 31 Questions Submitted Tips tips to make your life smarter, better, faster and wiser. Each tip is approved by our Editors and created by expert writers so great we call them Gurus. LifeTips is the place to go when you need to know about Horse tips and hundreds of other topics.

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Can you ride a 2 yr old horse?

Riding 2yr Olds

riI`m sure this is a silly question, but please answer it. It sure is a stupid argument, but it might save my marriage. I am under the impression that horses can`t be ridden until they are 4 years old, but my husband brought up the point that there are races for two and three year olds. I think that means two years of racing, because horses aren`t full-grown at two. Will you please explain? Thank you, Sally
Sally, Yes, your husband is correct. Racehorses are broken to ride the winter of their yearling year so that they can begin race training the Spring of their second year. Some are even started sooner, so that they can be racing on the 2nd year. Most standard Riding Horses are not put under saddle though until the winter of the 2nd year, and only once or twice per week and only for very short periods of time (15 minutes or less...just so they get used to the feel of it all). Thank you for your question, and no question is a silly one. Sorry that you lost the bet though! Bye, Best, Mary/Hardman

What is the proper adjustment for stirrups(e.g. length, amount of knee

Western Stirrup Length

What is the proper adjustment for stirrups(e.g. length, amount of knee bend, etc.) for pleasure riding with a western saddle?
For pleasure riding in a Western Saddle (I am going to assume that you mean such as in Pleasure Trail Riding--not Competitive Show Pleasure) your stirrups should be longer than English (with the exception of several of Dressage Instructors that prefer a VERY LONG LEG). Measure the same as with English. Place the "beefy" part of your palm on the outside of the stirrup bar area, and pull the stirrup skirt down or out towards your armpit--making sure to keep the skirt strait, smooth and stretched as much as is possible. Once in the saddle, stand in the stirrups. You should be able to place your hand between your crotch and the saddle. The width here is a personal preference. To sit deep, secure and comfortably with your heels down, and toes up and maintain contact with the horse at all times, you will want to have no more than a 3" space. The greater the security of the lower leg, the greater the rider will have in maintaining position at all gaits. The lower leg and rider control is lost if the stirrups are too long, and the rider is thrown out of the saddle at rough, uneven gaits if the stirrup is too short. Hope this helps, don't hesitate to Email if you have more questions. Bye, Best, Mary.

Do you have tips on training an old horse? A young horse?

Training Young or Old Horses

Do you have tips on training an old horse? A young horse?
For Training an old horse, the Newsletters for the Month of October covered many issues you will encounter. An older horse will definately tell you what his fears, reluctances, his vices and his undeveloped areas are. Then it is up to you to replace the bad memories that are restricting his learning with good memories, and positive reinforcement so to speak. That repetition is the fastest way to overcome obstacles in older horses, their memory channels are deep, and patience & positive reinforcement work the best. Young horses, I am referring to the Very green youngsters, I can recommend Cherry Hills' Book: "Making Not Breaking" is an absolute necessity for your bed stand BEFORE you undertake a youngster. After you have read that, and I will recommend further videos, books that can further you & the youngster on the road to development in the discipline(s) that you are both game to pursue! Have a Good GO! every go! Bye, Best, Mary.

I`d like information about Native Americans breaking horses by working

Native Americans Breaking Horses

I`d like information about Native Americans breaking horses by working with them in water.
Hi! Yes, that is the way that they broke horses. The more unruly, the deeper the water. It works. Anything that they wanted to do in training a horse, they would drive the horses into a body of water where they had to swim. Preferably a canyon with a deep body of water in the center of it. Enclose the canyon, and then taking "already broke horses" they would run the un-broke horse into the water, and corner it while still in the water, slip on their bridle, and then have someone slide onto its back and then maneuver the un-broke horse up and down stream until the fight was gone (exausted by swimming in deep water with a rider) and then let it back up onto land. The entire ordeal, the un-broke horse would view the broken horses with riders, bridles, etc. and by the time that horse was allowed out of the water, it was broken too. Since in those days horses were more expected to run with the group being ridden, not often did one be expected or required to perform in Dressage, Reining or the like; all that was required of a horse, was that the horse become rideable. This worked~!

what can I do to make my horses fur more smooth other than brushing hi

Smooth Coats

what can I do to make my horses fur more smooth other than brushing him
Stop by the Tips Section on Feeds, Supplements and Feeding. I have many products listed and what they do for the horse, and the ones that improve coat are listed as well. A dull coat though can be not wormed frequently or regularly, a SLIGHT illness such as a mini cold or flu, improper diet for that horse, not sufficient quality of hay, not clean water supply, or not protective housing conditions, or not enough attention. Horses LOVE being groomed daily, and you will find that the attention will bloom up the coat as much as the act of grooming itself! Hope these help! Bye, Mary.

how do i get my horse to stop rearing when its not a pain symptom

Horse Rearing

how do i get my horse to stop rearing when its not a pain symptom resulting from this kind of behavior and i dont have a round pen which i hear is better than an open pasture ... ihave no money for a round pen or even to hire a trainer...can u give me ad vice ... thanks kay
Kay, Hi! Depending upon the reasons why the horse is could be this is a vice it has developed due to learning from doing so in the past that people get off & quit; which if so, will take a professional to correct, simply because working with a vice like this is very, very dangerous. Otherwise, again it is a resistance to moving forward.....from, could be several reasons why......Arabians & Saddlebreds in general are both prone to rearing for evasion of work & going forward. You can try several things to work through with the horse, but realizing that rearing is one of the most dangerous resistances to work with, and truly needs someone that is on hand to beable to view the reasons why this horse is doing so. Before I can answer more in depth, can you provide me with the background of the instances of when this horse has reared, the before, and after scenerios, yada, yada, yada. It is just too dangerous of a vice to work with, and not seeing the why's and wherefore's of the situations. I really recommend having someone who understands horses locally going with you to watch and report what they are seeing before you go any further. Contact me if you can provide more depth on when & what is happening when this happens. Bye, Best Mary, Horse Tips @ Life Tips

How would you care for an orphaned suckling foal? How long does each h

Foaling Questions

It`s me again!!! I`m sorry to bother you, but I`m taking a really important test and I don`t know a lot of the answers! How would you care for an orphaned suckling foal? How long does each heat for a Mare horse last? What is "coming into season"? What is called "winking"? When is the afterbirth supposed to be expelled after foaling? What does the foal need to be injected against in it`s first 24 hours of life? When is it best to geld a colt? What is a breech-birth? How can you tell if the mare is ready to breed?
Hi! An orphaned foal is best if you can find a Thoroughbred Breeding farm that has a seasoned mare that can nurse two, or who has lost a foal. When that doesn't help, even a Donkey or a Mule or a Goat can nurse the foal. When all else fails, bottle nurse a foal with Goats Milk. Goats Milk has the highest fat ratio content, and is the closest match to Mare's milk; which is needed to aid in growth in new born foals not with the mother. A mare is individual in heat length, from 0ne to three to six to nine days. Coming Into Season is when the mare shows signs of having her reproductive fertility time coming on, or her "season". Winking is what the vulva of a mare does when the mare is in "season". The afterbirth MUST be expelled within 4 hours...but usually anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours, the sooner the better and if not; you must call a Veterinarian to prescribe Oxytocin (a shot to cause the uterus to contract) in order to release the after birth from the uterus. The foal must be protected from Tetanus immediately after birth. Either give the mare a shot 30 days prior to delivery or the Vet can treat the foal within hours of birth for a Tetanus (temporary) immunity. It is best to geld a colt between 6 and 9 months of age; slightly after weaning, yet not long enough that he starts to recognize his sexuality. A breech birth is when the rear end comes out first, not the head & front hooves. The mare will not object to the stallion's presence. She will even allow him to nip at her flanks. Okay, I think that you are supposed to be researching for school? Nite, Mary.

Need suggestions on economically lighting a new 200`x70` outdoor arena

Economical Arena Lighting

Need suggestions on economically lighting a new 200`x70` outdoor arena
You can purchase from Eagle Hardware those outside halogen floodlights on vice grips, and then attach them to the rail or the post (depending upon the structure of the arena). Then run outdoor electrical extension cords along the top rail to each light. If you use PVC piping attached to the outside of the top rail, then run the extension cord through the PVC piping, thereby allowing you to leave the extension cords out in the arena (you don't want to do this though if you use the arena for a TO at all though). Run your main extension cord to your outlet, and again, if anyone has to walk over it, you are better off running the cord through PVC piping for safety sake! Depending upon the set up, you should unplug the main cord, and wind it up after each evening's use. Keeping the attachment ends circling the arena tucked safely inside of the PVC pipe to keep out of weather, or curious horses, pets or children! Hope this helps you out! Bye, Best, Mary.

I was wondering if you caould tell me the difference if any between br

Breaking VS Joining Up Discussion

I am a college student writing a research paper on the benifits of the Join Up method. I was wondering if you caould tell me the difference if any between breaking and sacking out, and the details involved with each. thank you i appericiate any input you can offer. sincerely heather
Heather, Hi! I will divide this into the "Old Tyme" Methods of Training VS the "New Natural Horsemanship" or Joining Up, methods that have evolved. Old Father Tyme's Methods: Cowboys, and horseman from years gone by believed that a horse had to be dominated, to be controlled; and since horses' use force with one another, these trainers believed that force was necessary with mankind towards horses as well; in order to earn/deserve a horses' respect. You will note that horses in a herd will sniff nostrils, and "talk" to one another. If one disagrees with the leadership of another, he will "snort" "squeal" and generally be quite vocal with his disagreement. That is where the conflict ensues between them. Usually the newcomer is the one challenging the hierarchy of the other. The established horse will usually use a)charging, b)biting, c)kicking to reinforce his position within the herd. It is from this behavioural pattern that "old tyme horsemen" believed that horse's would only submit, respect, obey if you could prove to the horse that you were more aggessive or dominent. This method worked most of the time, and with most of the trainers. But, what if you were not an aggressive, bold, or dominent personality? I am sure you can see that you would hate horses for forcing you to behave as they do in order to influence their minds and hearts into believing that you were the one to follow, that they could trust you to take care of them~?! Thus came development of "Natural Horsemanship". Natural Horsemanship or "Joining Up" is focused on the premise that horses have a mind, a will and an ability to reason choice. This method is allowing them to make "controlled" choices in deciding that they want to obey, submit and let the trainer take control of them. This method does not use force, or belittling tactics of man or animal, or abuse, or severe training methods/equipment. What it is though, is running out the energy of the "student". {In my personal opinion, horses, adults, children are rebellious, and aggressive from a build up or imbalance of energy. This method, simply runs out the energy, and then the trainer is still there, persisting with the original request.} Proving to the horses' mind, that yes, he can refuse to obey, but "he will then be run from the herd until he changes his mind, from lack of energy to continue to run/or to disobey. In the "run from the herd" the trainer will constantly change the horses' direction, and run the horse in a small space {which uses more energy to repeatedly change direction & then run again in a "tight" space. Generally wheat this means is that the horse must moved collectedly, which again is a larger energy burner than to run wide open & free. Running free is also employing a lower stress level, than running in a small space. Stress is another employ of high energy burn. The natural horsemanship is reported to be faster, purportedly from the lack of abuse; whereas isn't it really from the rapid energy release that comes by the horses' choice to refuse to obey, and therefore be "run out". My only statement is that if you are working with a hot or high energy horse, it will still require sufficient amounts of time, and repetition, due to the energy level still being able to instill a stronger will of refusal, for a repeatly longer period of time. The proven argument against the "old tyme" method is still: in the times of stress, in times of difficulty, or "when the rubber meets the road", the horse will not be there for you; if it is at all hot or high energy, due to the abuse factor, combining the deep ingrained memory that horses have, and the negative memories at that moment controlling the will. Breaking is generally referred to as the "old tyme" method. Sacking out is what is done with a horse, in order to allow it to realize that what is being done to it, although scary at first, once sensitivities subside, realize that NOTHING BAD is happening to it. Sacking out is where the trainer takes a non hostile object (such as a saddle blanket or pad), and moves it all over the horses' entire body in a slow but steady fashion until the horse is no longer in objection to the object or the motion/movement of it on the horses' body. Did I answer your question? Does this make sense? Don't hesitate to contact me if this is confusing, or does not answer what you had in mind. Bye, Best, Mary.

Are there advantages or disadvantages in fencing in a horse using stee

Pros & Cons of Types of Fencings

Are there advantages or disadvantages in fencing in a horse using steel rails rather than wood or plastic? The size of the rail in all cases would be 1" thick x 6" wide x 10-ft in length. What is the dollar value of all fence products used to fence horses? Is there a national trade show for equestrian, farm-ranch products? I appreciate your response, and Regards Fred Mayer
Fred, HI~! Depending upon your area, the cost effectiveness of steel vs. wood you will have to check on. Again, the steel if it is fully treated (to prevent the destroyer of steel...which is rust) then steel far outweighs wood. You just need to price in your area, as well as a painted preventative to rusting, and in a non toxic paint if horses do grab ahold of the steel. Horses LOVE to chew wood, and depending on how much of it you need, the two best preventatives to chewing wood, are: 1) to lace the wood with hot wire (or as I term it, make the wood appear as though protected by FORT KNOX WIRING) or..... 2) paint the wood with used automotive or truck oil, and then wait for a rain to wash the ugly brown off (I guess after two days you could mist the brown off with a hose, only just use a light mist setting for the hose nozzle)....if you have white boards; or if you have Kentucky Brown Boards (no one will notice the stain of the oil). The oil staining will wash off with one rain. But the residue from the oil remains about 6 months (depending on the amount of rain you receive though), and then you just repaint the boards again with the used Automotive oil. I have found that creosote, horses will chew on after a couple of days, whereas the used Automotive oil, they will bite into and never touch again. The best Trade Show in the world is Equi-fair. Go to my Top Horse Sites section, and under the Links, the category titled: Horse Shows/County Fairs/Trade Fairs you will find several of the top (largest) Equine/Agricultural Trade Fairs in the USA. Hope this helps, Mary.

How do I stop a foal from biting?

Stoping A Foal From Biting

how do you stop a foal from biting?
Take your middle finger & your thumb and every time he/she indicates that is what the next plan of action is going to be, flic him/her hard on the side of the lips and sharply & authoratively "shout" NO! It takes repetious actions while they are small. If you have long nails, you can "poke" as you give/say the command in the same tender area near the lips. Don't let it continue, and EVERY time it happens, do the above, and after a FEW months, he/she will get the hint, as other horses will tell him/her "NO!" too! Nothing worse than an adult horse that has been left to "nip"! Stop by Bye, Best, Mary

3 health precautions for showing a horse and 5 safety and courtesy rul

Showing Safety Precautions

3 health precautions for showing a horse and 5 safety and courtesy rules used when riding or showing your horse
Health Precautions: 1) Make sure that your horse's shots are up to date, flu - rhino - AND his tetanus! 2) Make sure that you do not share water or grain buckets with anyone else at the show, and don't let anyone else use yours either. 3) Make sure to bring along a small travel first aid kit as is found in Tips in Trailer First Aid Pack. Safety or Courtesy: 1) Always pass safely on the inside of a horse at least two horse widths to the inside of unknown horses. 2) Always announce "coming through" if a group of horses/riders are beginning to enter a corner together if you have chosen to come well within the inside of the track. 3) Always keep your horse halted if the other half of the class are performing the hand gallop, do not let your horse wander or fidget while in line at this time. 4) Always have someone on the ground hold your horse rein's a short distance from the bit while you mount at a show or in a group & do not let go until you are mounted & have proper hold of your reins. 5) If a another horse becomes a run away, immediately HALT YOUR OWN HORSE no matter where you are. Bye, Best, Mary.

grazing rye grass, Are there any rules to follow on rye?

Grazing on Rye Grass

grazing rye grass, Are there any rules to follow on rye? Such as limited or timed grazing? Rain or sun make a difference? I have heard all kinds of stories that make me afraid to graze rye. Horses have been on pasture all summer and in stalls since winter but I am ready to turn them back out. Please help, I do not want a foundered or dead horse. Thank you, Julie
I have never had any problems with Rye grass or hay. When rye has reached a head, it will loose a lot of its protein value. As a pasture grass, or as a hay, it is excellent. It is softer in texture, and for that reason, often horses LOVE it. Whenever turning any horse(s) out onto pasture that have not been grazing 24/7, always start off slowly, gradually increasing the time on pasture. An example of this is: Day 1 out on grass for NO MORE than 2 hrs. Day 2 out on grass for NO MORE than 2 hrs. Day 3 out on grass for NO MORE than 3 hrs. Day 4 out on grass for NO MORE than 4 hrs. Day 5 out on grass for NO MORE than 4 hrs. Day 6 out on grass for NO MORE than 5 hrs. Day 7 out on grass for NO MORE than 6 hrs. Day 8 out on grass for NO MORE than 6 hrs. From here on, they can be left out for 24/7. During the entire process, watch them, and monitor for ANY signs that indicate they are out too long. Resting the rear against objects to relieve the rear end from weight. Too quickly thickening of neck crest. Frequent shifting of weight off of a foot (usually the rear shifting frequently). Heat in any one of the horse's feet. No interest in hay or grass for over an hour at a time. All these signs let you know that the time frames on grass need to be reduced for that particular horse. Hope this helps, go check out our Web page @ Happy New Year, Mary.

How cautious do I need to be about my 9 month old Shetland pony eating

Ponies on Pasture

How cautious do I need to be about my 9 month old Shetland pony eating too much new grass this spring? If I keep her in a semi-dry lot with the gelding horses during the day and only let her out to graze at night will that be OK?
Hi! No! She is one of the most vulnerable to founder, and laminitis! I would only let her out on the grass for an hour a day for at least two weeks. Then let her out on the grass for half an hour 4 times per day (half an hour ONLY!!! every 6 hours, if that is possible) throughout the summer....only for half an hour!!! Not until later in the fall, would I leave her out for any longer periods of time. Putting her out the 4 or 5 times per day, is all the food that she should need throughout the summer. No matter though, keep monitoring her weight, and keep watch of her behaviour that she does not founder. As soon as you notice the crest of her neck thickening, and becoming cresty, then cut her back at least 100% immediately! Then after three days, start her back up, with only half an hour per day for the first two weeks. She is so small, that she will founder very, very quickly and will not provide much will be able to tell though. Please read in Tips the Tips for founder and laminitis, as with a little body such as this, you must be careful! Laminitis causes permanent damage, even if the process only gets started, so it is well worth preventing before it happens. Don't hurt her from too much kindness! Bye, Best, Mary @ Horse Tips Stop by my home site at


How Much To Feed A Miniature?

NOT MUCH~! In all seriousness....she should receive a SMALL handful of complete pellets 2X daily, and then a double flake of local hay dispensed throughout the day...4X daily if your schedule allows. If you have pasture, I would not allow her to be out any longer than an hour per day in the Spring-Summer-Fall. In the winter, depending on your weather, no longer than 4 hours maximum. With Minis you have a GREAT problem preventing yourself from overfeeding. Most Mini's suffer the need of a great weight reduction problem due to it takes NOTHING to supply sufficient feed to them. Have fun with her, and make sure she exercises every day! Hope this helps, Bye, Best, Mary.

what can i do for a horse with navicular?


what can i do for a horse with navicular?
Do? Have you researched Horse Tips on Navicular? Listed there is the diagnosis, common causes, treatment, and only your Veterinarian can tell you to the degree the disease has affected your horse, and the post care necessary, as well as the amount of exercise the horse is capable of performing. Hope this helps Melanie. Mary.

I need two dieseases that are caused by Viruses, and three diseases th

Virus' and Bacterias'

I need two dieseases that are caused by Viruses, and three diseases that are caused by bacteria. Can you give me some answers, and could you explain the diffence? Thank you!
Virus Infections: Cold, similar to colds as received by Humans. Symptoms are: slight nasal (and sometimes eye discharge) slight temperature, off feed, dull coat appearance, listless - no energy, spends time just staring, quick breathe or shivering muscles. Requires Veterinarian to determine if antibiotics are necessary, keep out of draughts, blanket, provide lots of fresh, clean water frequently to encourage the horse to drink lots. Equine Influenza, which is highly contagious & infectious. If you suspect this, immediately isolate the horse, and call the Veterinarian. Symptoms include: sudden rise in temperature, dry & shallow cough, exhaustion, depression, mucous discharge from nose (can be clear & runny), loss of appetite, inflammation of eyes, gums and other mucous membranes. Needs regular vaccination schedule. Strangles, which is very highly contagious and infectious! Symptoms include: sharp rise in temperature, profuse mucous nasal discharge, formation of abscess in the area under the head inbetween the jowels or cheek area, signs of great depression & distress, off feed almost completely, swallowing with great difficulty, throat tense & enlarged. Isolate the horse, and provide a change of clothing to attend to horse, with gloves, and separate cleaning utensils such as wheelbarrow, rakes, forks, shovels, and then wash hands thoroughly immediately before changing clothing, and then after changing clothing & using utensils. A very highly contagious and infectious viral disease!!! Bacterial Infections: Tetanus, enters the body through a wound from off of the ground. Any horse that is not innoculated is at risk. Symptoms: general stiffness, high temperature, standing in a symulated "park" stance, eye membranes extending over the eyeball (as in a second eyelid), in the very last stages, the jaws become locked shut. Botulism, is a bacterial infection and the most potent toxic to humans. Horse death rate is 70/90%. Symptoms are: flaccid paralysis of the musculature system, especially of the tail, tongue, weakened gait, decreased tone of the eyelid, decreased bowel, seating, shaking forelegs, colic, bloating. Once horses start lying down, the heart & respiratory rates increase dramatically. Death follows respiratory arrest. Contacted by ingestion of the bacteria through either contaminated feed or water. Feed contaminated by dead birds or the stool of contaminated birds. Anthrax, contamination by ingestion or from a biting insect. Horses can contact from overgrazed pastures, or after flooding that spreads the spores. Symptoms from ingestion include: colic, enteritis, septicemia. Symptoms from insects include: fever, swelling in an edemic manner of the throat, lower chest, abdomen, prepuce and mammary areas. Can be prevented by vaccination. COPD...Chronic Obstructive Pulminary Disease, is this what you were referring to with COPD in your questions under grain? Hope this helps, Mary.

what do I do if my horse eat a bunch of grain?

Horse Overeats

what do I do if my horse eat a bunch of grain?
Keep watch on him/her to be aware of signs of colic....biting at sides, restless, external heat of the body as in big time sweat with NO exercise, no manure. Usually nothing will happen except that they will feel uncomfortable. Have a large amount of safflower oil (gallon) on hand. If any signs of definite colic, start tubing the oil into the digestive system.....or if uncertain how to do this properly, call your Veterinarian, and KEEP him/her WALKING!!!!! If he/she is having bowl movements, and isn't heating up or biting at sides, go to bed, knowing that they probably have only a stomach ache. Provide LOTS of fresh water & low protein local to help to keep the digestive tract active, and force the grain through the digestive system. Let me know how he/she is later! Bye, Best, Mary @ Good GO! Farm

Why are oats the most popular horse feed? Why do you have to soak suga


I have a few questions: What does COPD stand for, or what is it? Why are oats the most popular horse feed? Why do you have to soak sugar beet for at least 12 hours before feeding it to the horse? Who is carried longer a Colt or a Filly? Thanks!
How exactly is COPD used in the reference that you are asking for? Oats are the most popular for feeding as they GENERALLY speaking are low in creating a "Hot" horse in comparison to all other natural grains; they are a pure & natural feed (not processed, and the energy, fibre, water, mineral content is exact not approximated); they are not stored in the horse's system, but all excess is eliminated; they do not swell in the horse's system, but remain the same size through digestion; they are easily digestible for the horse's system. Beet Pulp must be fully expanded before being fed to horses. ESPECIALLY if you are feeding with a pelleted food; as the pelleted food will absorb any and all moisture in the horse's digestive tract before being eliminated, due to the process of formation of the pellet (it has been water withdrawn before being packaged). Beet Pulp requires so much water for the complete expansion from the pelleted form, that it is considered to be dangerous to the horse's digestive tract by not being presoaked to replace the withdrawn water that was removed prior to packageing. I just attended a Breeding Seminar by the Veterinarians at the Kentucky Research Center, and there is no difference in time of carriage between a filly and a colt within the mare. It is the mare's own internal gestation time that will determine the rate at which the foal develops within her.

what are the pros and cons of feeding rice bran to horses?

Feeding Rice Bran

what are the pros and cons of feeding rice bran to horses
JFYI.....Rice Bran is listed in the tips categories. I currently have 4 horses. 2 are fed rice bran, 2 are not. It has the capacity to build fat content on the body of the horse very quickly; as well as maintain that fat level while the horse is fed Rice Bran. I would recommend it for specific horses that are undergoing high levels of activity, or poor keepers, or weanlings, or lactating mares, or stallions, and any other horse in which the condition is imperative; or when the horse's condition level can be subject to changes that would effect the weight or loss. Due to the high degree of "processed & digestible fat content" Rice Bran improves the coat condition as well. The cons is feeding to a horse that is prone to excessive weight gain....they could founder from too high of a diet in carbohydrates. Hope this helps, stop by our web site at Bye, Best Merry Christmas, Mary.

How much do you feed a horse ?

Feeding A Horse

How much do you feed a horse
The general rule is a little often. A horse's stomach is only about 1 to 3 gallons in size and therefore, they should be fed, a little, very frequently. The rough rule of thumb is 3% of the horse's total body weight. Feed according to the rule of thumb but monitor the condition....making sure that the hip area is covered with flesh and the ribs and shoulders as well. Though you must beware (especially with some breeds of overfeeding, there are just as many breeds that require alot more than the normal rule of thumb!! The horse MUST HAVE CLEAN WATER AVAILABLE TO IT AT ALL TIMES! The factors that effect that ratio are: easy keeper vs poor keeper of weight; amount of exercise daily; placid temperment vs nervous (hot); type of feed given (alfalfa or timothy or local hay; complete, natural grain or extruded grains); age; growth period; gestating or lactating mare; stallion; whether or not pasture is available; stabled, blanketed or out in weather. If you need any further assistance, don't hesitate to ask. Bye, Mary.

Can A Diet Make A Horse Hot?

Diets Making Horses Hot

Is it true feeding oats can make a horse overly nervous, exciteable and harder to handle? My horse has been getting equine senior w/1.5 lbs of oats per feeding (2 x per day), He used to be like a puppy dog, now he is hard to handle. what are your thoughts.
Liz, Hi! Every food made for horses can react to each one totally differently. With the current 4 that I own/show, 2 are naturally very can eat Alfalfa & Alfalfa pellets and be totally "ho-hum" the other one can not even eat 14% Complete without scaling the walls, yet can eat Oats and local hay, and be "ho-hum". The "one that is totally dead" in natural nature, when he eats 12% pellets becomes a "perfect horse with a normal amount of gas", yet if he eats "extruded" feeds he becomes borderline "hot" which is difficult for him to handle mentally, because he is completely "dead" by natural nature. You have to experiment with each horse to find out the food that works best for them....both in effect on temperment and the effect on the physical condition. Extruded feeds often times will make horses with active digestion (such as in people that have high metabolic know the guy that can literally eat anything and every thing and never gain a pound) very hot or hard to handle, due to the added processing of the feed breaking down the feed into it's most palatable state...which in lay terms means the feed is so processed that all a horse need to do is swallow, digest, and "pfff" it will receive EVERYTHING the feed has to offer! Now with horses that have poor digestion the extruded feeds are great, as the horses system does not have to process the feed in order for the horse to receive the maximum benefit from the feed. As far as I know, Equine Senior is an extruded feed. I would try discontinuing the Oats, and if the condition of the horse stays the same (after a month) then you know that the added energy is coming from the Extruded Feed. I would then put the horse back on Oats if he did well on it before. Why did you change over to the Equine Senior? Hope this helps you out! Bye, Best, Mary.

does a certain feed effect the speed of a horse, what do famouse race

Science Fair Feeding Questions

I have to do a science fair project and wit would really help if you could e-mail me back an answer and I need to fill up a whole notecard of info. so, does a certain feed effect the speed of a horse, what do famouse race horses eat, and any other scientific things on how different feeds affect the speed of a horse, spicificly sweet feed, and grain please thanks.
In feeding horses, the higher the energy content, usually the higher the energy level of the horse increases. For racehorses, usually corn mixes are fed. Corn is the highest energy resource in equine diets. A sample 2X daily grain ration for a Racehorse could be: (given the horse is a moderate keeper, 16 hands tall, 1500 lbs., sent out only once per day, to work for 15/20 minutes). 2 - 24 quart buckets filled with water. Monitored. Haynet kept filled with high quality local hay. One 24 quart grain bucket kept filled with alfalfa cubes. One 24 quart grain bucket of: Two 5 lb. coffee cans of sweet feed, One coffee can of soaked beet pulp, 1 cup Rice Bran, 1 half cup of ground flax seed. Vitamins as per the needs of the horse as prescribed by the Veterinarian, and the particular needs as viewed by condition. A flake of Alfalfa upon returning to the stall from working, A flake of Alfalfa at last feeding, and stall check for the night. High performance horses that are moderate to hard keepers, need to have a balance between energy, and roughage, with feed available to them at all times of the day/night. Sweet feed is flavorful, high in calories, and high in energy production; beet pulp is flavorful, and slows down the digestion rate; rice bran adds in slowing of the digestion, adds oil for digestion, and the coat enhancement; ground flax seed adds in oil for digestion, and coat enhancement. Specific vitamins as prescribed for that particular horse as viewed from condition at work, and by the Veterinarian knowing the horse, and the work regime will be necessary as well. Hope this helps, Mary, stop by my farm site at

body clipping how to do it with a horse that has cushing disease? Very

Clipping a Horse With Cushings Disease

body clipping how to do it with a horse that has cushing disease? Very shaggy and long hair.
Hi! With a horse that has Cushing's Disease, I would not clip them until the frost season has ceased in your area....UNLESS you will sheet or blanket them, appropriate for a horse that is probably at least 10 degrees more sensitive to cold than the rest are. If you do clip and intend to blanket, don't clip the face, neck underbelly or legs unless you have a hood that fits, and unless you are going to apply polos for nighttime, and have diaper pins to secure the polos properly, UNLESS YOU HAVE A HORSE THAT WILL TRY TO REMOVE THE POLOS, then don't apply them at all. The unclipped areas, I would wait until the weather is feeling every day & night like summer. Then, clip as you would any horse, give the horse a very warm bath on a hot day. Walk around in the sun, until dry, and then take inside and body clip. Make sure though to always apply at least a Cotton Sheet to these horses at night, unless they are stabled and completely out of any draft, and have lots of bedding. The last thing that these Cushings Horses need is to chill. Hope this helps, and have a GOOD GO! every GO with your Horse! Mary.

small-medium-large obstacles, you suggested that I see this item?

Small Medium or Large Jumping Obstacles

small-medium-large obstacles, you suggested that I see this item in tips. I cannot seem to locate it. I would like to know this information as soon as possible as you know, already , that I am preparing to show in a few weeks.
Caroline, Hi! The heights for each are listed under the category, "Jumping" then under Small Obstacles, then Medium Obstacles, then Large Obstacles. Peruse through the Tip Category, as there is lots of information on beginning the horse, and beginning the rider as well. Give Anita and Shawnee my best, Bye, Best, Mary.

How Do I Load A Spooky Horse in a Trailer.

How Do I Load A Spooky Horse In A Trailer

trailer loading problems will not load 5year old mare rears freaks out
Depending upon the trailer is EVERYTHING! and the people assisting you. If she has had a bad experience, you are going to have to take time in getting her memories over the bad experience, and will have difficulty every time loading everytime for a long time. Most all horses prefer stock or angle haul trailer to load into. They don't seem to mind whether or not it is a ramp or a step up, but definately prefer stock or angle. Given she is already difficult, until you have reinforced some Good Trips, and given the short space I have to provide you with info, I would recommend only working with a large stock trailer. Kindness, patience, persistance work best. DO NOT LOOSE your temper at any time, and DO NOT let her leave the immediate proximatey of the trailer loading door. Do not let her think that by acting up, backing away or running over any one will get her out of this. Providing that you are able to use one properly, put a "be nice" halter on the mare. You can try loading another horse B4 her, but once a horse does load on its own, they don't really care if any other horses are along or not. Use carrot pieces as rewards, as she progresses, feed her one. As she degresses, give her one-quick-hard-release jerk on the lead shank and have someone behind her very lightly wave a dressage whip with a white plastic bag on it just little enough that it aggitates the mare, and she wants to move forward to get away from the agitating white plastic bag. Set aside an entire day for the task. Once inside, tie her short (about 12" of lead rope only--MAX), and tie her close to the front by the truck. Drive very slowly. Brake very slowly. Anticipate corners driving cautiously around. Make her trailering experiences GOOD ones, and in time, she will be okay. She could consider leaving her "friends" enough to be a bad experience! Thank you for your question, Mary from I have an article on my home site. Trailer Tips.

How To Hitch a Horse or Mule?

How To Hitch A Horse or Mule

I need a vidio teaching me how to hitch a horse, or team of horses, how to train and voice camands,and how to drive,and what harness to use,and same for mules;
An excellent video is named: Breaking & Training The Driving Horse by Doris Ganton. It runs for 2 hrs. I hope to update Driving Tips in March. Bye, Best, Mary

Should I buy an untrained four year old?

Training A Four Year Old

I have never owned a horse before and I may be buying a four year old gelding that has never been ridden but he is very gentle and friendly. A friend of mine said a four year old horse is to old to be broken. What is your opinion? I would not be the one breaking him I would be hiring someone to do it.
It all depends upon the horse's nature (temperment), how much handling he has had, how much ground work has been done, whether or not he has ground manners. Yada, Yada, Yada. Providing that you are hiring a Professional, someone recommended by Equine Veterinarians, and Trade Professionals (such as Farriers, Coaches, etc.). Make sure in your selection that you are finding someone that KNOWS how to work with babies, (even though he's 4, in development he is a baby)and has recommendations from several people. In training a baby it is worth the expense in the long run to have someone train them who has just a bizzilion years experience, and positive recommendations from individuals owning horses from the breed, and discipline that he is, and that you want to pursue! Natural Horsemanship is wonderful for pursuing the basics, the commencement....getting him started under saddle, and again, someone that is highly recommended~! Once the colt is rideable though, you need someone that has worked extensively in bringing along babies into understanding basics on into the beginnings of some polish. Then he will be the horse that YOU can enjoy. I would ask a Professional such as a Veterinarian or Farrier that you know that you trust to look at the colt and determine the willingness & the receptiveness of his mind, and how much work/training/expense you will have to invest to have someone do the prepatory work for you. Quite often a horse left until an older age (which 4 is for training), he will have developed a resentment for any work simply due to the fact that in human years he is growing out of his teens, and not many teens would want to go to school when they haven't had to up to that age....... Hope this helps, Bye, Best, Mary.

When do you start shoeing horses?

When do you start shoeing horses?

When do you start shoeing horses? We have a 2 year old filly (just purchased) should she be shoed. We also have a 5 month old colt when do we start shoeing him. We`ve always had older horses and am not sure about these youngsters. The filly is ridden almost daily.
Diane Hi! You don't need to put shoes on them unless they are damaging or wearing the feet down and that necessitates shoes being put on. If they have tough and hard feet, then shoes shouldn't be necessary. A friend had an Appy X that had never worn shoes (up to 18 yrs. of age), but he had incredibly tough, hard feet that stayed in shape, and were unaffected by the roads. If the foot starts to spread in width at the base, in such a manner as to become splay footed (it is called), or chips, or cracks then you must shoe the horse. Weanlings can be shod, but it is recommended that you remove the shoes off of weanlings, yearlings and 2 yr. olds from November through March in order to provide some relief; BUT/and except if the horse has such soft feet that further damage would result from having the shoes removed. Otherwise count your blessings that you don't need to shoe them! Bye, Best, Mary.

what do i need to do to build up muscles on my 8 month old colt that i

Showing In Hand

how to get a shine on your horses coat. also what do i need to do to build up muscles on my 8 month old colt that i am going to show at halter?
To get a great shine, most of the "extruded" feeds will enhance the coat, but the best is mixing a half cup of "black oil sunflower seeds" and a half cup of peanuts to the grain mixture daily. To show a colt in hand, if he is a breed that the natural lofty motion is desired....spend 15 minutes with him 3X daily simply letting him "park trot" in an arena. Just stand in the center of the arena, and attach a white plastic grocery bag to the end of a lunge whip. Don't crack the whip, or make any sudden or sharp movements, as this will encourage the colt to run or gallop and what you want is simply to "air him up" so that he performs a lofty, airey, park trot up and down the arena. Most often, simply slowly lifting the whip in the air from the ground, and back down again is sufficient to "air him up". Remember, the purpose of the whip/bag is to startle the colt enough that he naturally "flags" himself, and strengthens these muscles, not the muscles that are used by galloping or running. If you are showing in halter in quarter horse classes, then you want to work the colt at a slow, steady trot on a lunge line, long and low for about the same time frame every day, but AFTER he has had time to free exercise on his own, and get the "yahoo's" out of his system! Hope this answers your questions, Stop by my home site at Bye, Best, Mary @ Horse Tips

suspensory ligament injury ?

Suspensory Ligament Injuries

suspensory ligament injury
Please refer to the Tips on Diseases, Injuries, Unsoundnesses. Email me if you need further info.

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